For much of its history, Harlem has been the city’s go-to destination for soul food, a neighborhood where fried chicken and chitterlings constituted their own protein group and banana pudding qualified as a fruit.

But to hear Susannah Koteen tell it, the signature dish of Harlem, circa 2015, might be an almond-crusted snapper paired with sautéed spinach and baby lentils.

Ms. Koteen is the proprietor of Lido, a four-year-old, upscale Harlem restaurant that specializes in Italian and other Mediterranean fare and counts the snapper dish as among its most popular. And while the restaurateur says she respects the neighborhood’s culinary roots, she also says that as Harlem evolves into a more culturally diverse neighborhood, its palate is clearly broadening.

Source: www.marketwatch.com